Hardboard makes a great foundation for your mosaics as long as you limit the size of the overall mosaic, limit the tesserae dimensions, and do not show the mosaic in a wet atmosphere. Stay away from hardboard for out of doors purposes simply because of the potential for deterioration. Assuming your tesserae are the size of a quarter or significantly less and the all round dimensions of your mosaic is much less than 24″x24″, I have discovered that 1/8-inch thick hardboard provides an sufficient basis. If your tesserae are modest, it’s stunning how adaptable the mosaic is, even with grout, which indicates it can stand up to some warping just before the grout cracks or glass items pop off. If your tesserae are massive or if you incorporate big parts of stained glass into your mosaic, the thickness of your basis need to be better since the mosaic can’t face up to as considerably warping (i.e., the thicker the wooden, the more resistant to warping). For illustration, suppose your mosaic is 24″x24″ and you use a solitary piece of yellow stained glass to symbolize the vibrant sunshine lighting up the planet. Suppose the sun’s diameter is ten inches, which helps make up a very good chunk of the mosaic. It is easy to see how a tiny warping can pressure that single piece of glass leading to failure (i.e., breaking, popping off). It’s like ceramic tile on a concrete-slab basis. As the concrete cracks and moves, tension is applied to the ceramic tile and, if the pressure is fantastic ample, the tile breaks. Consequently, you should think about the tesserae dimension when picking the thickness of your mosaic’s foundation.
Above the several years producing many wall mosaics that are 24″x24″ or considerably less, I have located that my favored basis is one/8-inch hardboard. It is the darkish-brown things that pegboard is made from but with no the holes. It truly is slippery sleek on one particular facet and rough on the other. I use this content only for dry, indoor, wall mosaics that will not be exposed to moisture. I use this substance simply because it is: 1) Relatively skinny, 2) Comparatively lightweight, and three) Rough on one facet so the glue grabs keep of it nicely.
The 1/eight-inch thickness enables the concluded mosaic to fit in a normal pre-produced frame. My glass tesserae are about 1/8-inch thick, so the overall thickness of the completed mosaic is only about 1/four-inch. This makes it possible for me to acquire a ready-produced frame for virtually nothing. I prepare my indoor wall mosaics to be sixteen”x24″, eighteen”x24″, or 24″x24″, which are common dimensions for pre-produced frames. If I had been to use three/4-inch plywood or MDF as the basis, I would then have to use a custom made frame with adequate depth to cover the complete thickness of the mosaic (i.e., three/four-inch wood basis in addition one/8-inch tesserae equals practically a 1-inch thickness). Personalized frames price up to 5 times much more than regular pre-produced frames. For illustration, by using edge of their biweekly 50% sale at my preferred pastime retailer, I can get a pre-manufactured eighteen”x24″ frame in a wonderful type and color that very best fits the mosaic, have the mosaic mounted in the frame, have the hanging wire put in, and have paper backing set up, all for less than $twenty five. Which is appropriate! Much less than twenty five bucks. A personalized-created frame may possibly expense as much as $one hundred fifty.
glas mozaiek do I preserve on framing expenses, the hardboard is cheap when compared to three/four-inch plywood and MDF. I buy a pre-cut area of hardboard instead of a full 4’x’8 sheet. The pre-cut part is 24″x48″. Being aware of the peak of my indoor wall mosaics is typically 24″ (which is the width of the pre-lower segment), this permits me to cut the hardboard offering me a 16″, eighteen”, or 24″ width for my mosaic foundation. For case in point, suppose I want my mosaic to be 18″x24″. The pre-reduce width of the hardboard I purchase is 24″. I evaluate and cut eighteen”, which benefits in a piece of hardboard which is 18″x24″. The piece suits completely in a normal eighteen”x24″ pre-produced body. I measure and lower the hardboard making use of a standard circular noticed and a “rip fence” that I make by clamping a three-foot stage to the hardboard with two C-clamps. The rip fence makes it possible for me to drive the observed alongside the straight edge of the degree to make sure a straight and exact reduce.
I prepare the hardboard basis by portray it with two coats of white primer. The primary explanation for portray it white is to get a white qualifications onto which the glass tesserae will be adhered (Note: I always adhere the glass to the tough facet of the hardboard). Although I normally use opaque glass, the white background aids brighten it up. The dark-brown shade of the hardboard helps make the glass pieces seem uninteresting and dark, even however the glass is supposed to be opaque. The secondary gain of portray the hardboard with primer is that it seals it. I don’t know if sealing hardboard does everything, but it helps make me really feel much better believing it really is sealed. I never know the substance or chemical properties of hardboard and how it is manufactured, so I never know if it demands to be sealed, but portray it offers me a wonderful, heat-and-fuzzy sensation. I have a practice of sealing everything whether it needs it or not.
Soon after applying the tesserae and grout, you’ll be stunned at how versatile the mosaic is with no creating glass or grout failure (assuming your tesserae are comparatively little). When I initial utilized 1/eight-inch hardboard as the foundation for a mosaic, I experimented and identified that I could bend the mosaic a complete two inches without having influencing the glass and grout. I was way too afraid to bend it a lot more than two inches! Soon after the experiment, I assumed if the mosaic can bend a whopping two inches, then it can survive any warping that may possibly arise. Then, right after the mosaic was put in in the pre-created body, I recognized that the mosaic was mounted in these kinds of a method to inhibit any warping at all. The mosaic was pressed and held in-location with the small fasteners in the back of the frame to hold it from slipping out. The only way the mosaic can warp is if it is sturdy sufficient to lead to the body to warp with it. I have by no means had a difficulty with any indoor wall mosaic warping when employing one/eight-inch hardboard installed in a standard pre-created frame.
1/eight-inch hardboard is also light-weight sufficient so the bodyweight of the all round mosaic isn’t so heavy that you have to transform your residence to create a assistance construction stout enough to hold the weight of a mosaic. Typically, my 24″x24″ (or less) mosaics are mild sufficient to sufficiently dangle by implies of a photo hook and nail set up in drywall. I never have to reduce into the drywall to put in 2″x4″ items in between the studs and then replace the drywall. This is incredibly useful, particularly when selling or giving absent the mosaic (i.e., you will not lose buyers that you might or else get rid of if you notify them they have to cling the mosaic by carrying out some thing much more than pounding a nail into wall).